I was rooting around on
the net looking for info on The Fitzroy Tavern and I found this site
The Randomness
Guide To London
ThatÕs where I found
some of this stuff
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The Pub
The Fitzroy Tavern The building was originally constructed as the
Fitzroy Coffee House, in 1883, and converted to a pub (called ÒThe Hundred
MarksÓ due to the many German immigrants living in the area) in 1887, by
[William Mortimer Brutton]?. In the early years of the 20th century, Judah
Morris Kleinfeld, a [Savile Row]? tailor and naturalised British citizen
originally from Polish Russia, decided that he wanted to become a pub
licensee, and started the work of persuading the brewery that owned the
Hundred Marks, Hoare & Co., that he was the man for the job. Although they
originally thought that his name sounded too German, his British citizenship,
which he'd obtained a decade and a half earlier, swung the balance; and he
was even given special permission for his under-age daughter, Annie, to work
behind the bar, since his three sons were all serving in the Forces at the
time. Annie had had ambitions to go to finishing school and become a fine
lady, but gave them up to help her father with his dream. Annie did all the
book-keeping for the pub, since Judah couldn't write English. The pub
re-opened as the Fitzroy Tavern in March 1919. |
The Clientele
Dylan Thomas |
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Charles Allchild |
The area of Fitzrovia
is named after this pub; the term was coined during the 1930s, when the
Fitzroy Tavern was frequented by writers, artists, sculptors, composers and
poets in some kind of Bohemian community: ÒIn those daysÓ, said
Charles Allchild — he was talking of the days just after the First
World War — Òif one of them sold a picture, or had an article accepted,
they were all in the money for as long as it lasted. Then they were all broke
until another one was lucky.Ó (quoted from
http://www.pennies-from-heaven.org/) It was the strong
personality of Judah Kleinfeld, known as 'Pop' Kleinfeld, which made the
place. Nina Hamnett, one of the main people on the social scene, tried out
all the pubs in the area, and decided that Pop Kleinfeld and his lively
Fitzroy Tavern were the closest she was going to get in London to the
Parisian cafes, and introduced her 'set' to them. Augustus John and Jacob
Epstein were only two of the famous personages who used to drink here. Even
Aleister Crowley was a customer, though Annie didn't approve of his presence. The Fitzroy Tavern was
the birthplace of the [Pennies From Heaven] charity, which developed from an
idea by Pop Kleinfeld. He saw the loser of a darts match in the public bar
throw a dart into the ceiling out of exasperation, and decided to provide
darts with little paper bags attached for people to put money in and throw at
the ceiling. The history of the pub
is described in [The Fitzroy: The Autobiography of a London Tavern] ([photo])
(the story of Sally Fiber, the grand-daughter of Pop Kleinfeld, as told to
Clive Powell-Williams). Much of the historical information on this page comes
from that book. –Kake The Grafton Arms O'Neill's King & Queen Hope Valiant Trooper One Tun Northumberland Arms Fitzroy Tavern England was merry
England when Old Christmas brought
his sports again Twas Christmas
broached the mightiest ale Twas Christmas told
the merriest tale A Christmas gambol oft
would cheer A poor man's heart
through half the year Sir Walter Scott Welcome to another seasonal excursion into a
magical world where apathy, ignorance and sheer bloody-mindedness are briefly
forgotten (only to return later, usually by the fifth pint). Yes, it is time to fling ourselves into
festive action once more, as King Eric said: "When the pissed gulls follow the pub
crawl, it is because there is no more booze indoors". Or something like
that. Towards the beginning of the second world war,
Bloomsbury had passed it's 1920's heyday and the centre of avant-garde intellectual
life moved a few hundred yards west to the other side of Tottenham Court
Road, to 'Fitzrovia'. In this area, bounded by Oxford St., Euston Rd.,
Tottenham Court Rd. and Great Portland St., flats were numerous, good
restaurants were springing-up, the British museum reading room was still
within walking distance and.....there were lots of good pubs nearby. Fitzrovia takes it's name from the nearby
Fitzroy Square and has long been known as a haunt of artists and writers, or,
as they are frequently referred to, Bohemians. Bohemia - Slovanian kingdom of central Europe.
Became a province of Czechoslovakia by the Treaty of Versailles (1919). Bohemian - Person (esp. artist or writer) of
free-and-easy habits, manners and sometimes morals (from mistaken belief that
gypsies came originally from Bohemia). In Fitzrovia, the archetypal Bohemian artist,
Augustus John, introduced the archetypal Bohemian poet, Dylan thomas to his
future wife, Caitlin. George Orwell also regularly drank in the pubs of the
area and George Bernard Shaw did what came naturally to him. What times they
were, as Dylan Thomas explained: "Oh how I hated those recumbent
Bohemians! Slowly, I went upstairs to bath. There was a man asleep in the
bath. And tears ran down my cheeks. Two creatures stretched dead in my
bed............... P.S. I am sorry to add to this that by the end
of the day I was happy as a pig in shit myself, and conducted the singing of
hymns with my broken arm, and chased people and was caught, and wound up snug
as a bugger in Rugby. Oh, my immortal soul, and oh, my tissues!". Fitzrovia has lost it's Bohemian air, now
being full of 'mee-jar'-types, but, as we shall see, it still has some fine
pubs (and a lot of them) with a wide range of the best of British beers (as
well as 'Hooch', 'K' and 'Diamond White'). |
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The Grafton Arms (Whitbread 'Hogshead'
Free house) "...To Mister Whitbread forth
he sent a page To say that majesty proposed to view With thirst of wondrous
knowledge deep inflamed His vats, and tubs, and hops, and hogsheads
famed" A crowded, lively pub with an
unusual layout, a loud jukebox and a wide range of beers, several of which
are in barrels behind the counter. A huge lamp, with 'Pub' written on it,
reminds you of where you are. More seating can be found upstairs but will,
invariably, be busy. A 'sun-trap' roof garden is here, if anybody fancies
visiting in warmer months. Beers from Castle Eden, Wadworth, Greene King and
Marstons, plus several guest beers were on when I visited. The pub is
decorated with a rainforest of posters advertising various drinks and Sky TV. Suitably protected against the, no
doubt, biting wind we now cross Fitzroy Square. You want to know why it's
called this? Well...... Henry Fitzroy was the son of
Charles II and was married by the age of 9 to the 5-year old daughter of Lord
Arlington (This was later known as 'a 9 to 5 job'). Between them, these two
were given a lot of land: she was given the manor of Tottenham Court, he was
made the Earl of Euston and later, the Duke of Grafton (hence the Grafton
Arms). Now, the son of these two, Charles Fitzroy (2nd Duke of Grafton) built
the Euston Rd. and their great grandson, the 1st Baron Southampton, developed
Fitzroy Square. The famous Adam brothers (no, they were not trapeze artistes)
designed the east and south sides, which were built in the early 1790s. The
south side was destroyed in the second world war but has since been replaced.
The west and north sides were added in 1825-9. The square is a pedestrian
precinct. Various notable people lived here including George Bernard Shaw
(blue plaque at #29), Lord Salisbury (prime minister) and Robert Adam. The
park contains a sculpture, 'View', by Naomi Blake to commemorate the Silver
Jubilee. We initially pass by the London Foot Hospital, where we'll lose all
of those who fancy a toe-job.
2. O'Neill's (Charrington) One of the Irish theme pubs that
are springing up all around London. Apparently, there are various
'Irish-style' interiors that can be chosen (anyone who has visited the new
'O'Neills' (ex-'Three Tuns') in Blackheath, will find this place familiar).
This crowded pub has various snug areas, draught Bass, decent-enough Guinness
and a range of 'Irish' food. Appropriately, Irish music tries to create the
sort of atmosphere that pub designers just know happens all the time in
Dublin. Ponder such cynicism as you stand on the table singing rebel songs.
There is live music upstairs on Fridays. As we leave O'Neill's, you may
notice a huge erection up ahead. The G.P.O., sorry, British Telecom tower
looms. Opened in 1965 and standing 620ft (or 186m, as we should say) high,
the building has become one of London's landmarks. Eric Bedford was the man
responsible and he and his family live at............
3. King and Queen (Scottish & Newcastle) We turn down Cleveland Street,
built in 1745-70 and now occupied mainly by buildings of the Middlesex
hospital. Samuel Morse, the American inventor of the morse code, lived at No.
141 in 1812-1815. This old-fashioned pub has an old-fashioned till (no
'push-screen' jobs here) plus Ruddles County, Best and Adnams Extra on
draught. In addition, a new, 'smooth' John Smiths can be sampled (keg beer is
on it's way back?) and a wide range of whiskies and other spirits is
available. Pictures of various kings and queens are above the bar (no picture
of Elvis, strangely). Behind the bar are photographs of professional cheeky
chappies Bob Hoskins and Phil Collins. Are they kings? Are they queens? There
is a (quiet) jukebox but I didn't feel like 'checking it out' after seeing
the picture of Mr. Collins. When I first visited, the place was so lively
that the barman was playing dice with the other customer. Happily, it is
usually busier than this and the pub is a finalist for the Evening Standard
'pub of the year'. Beer! Happy produce of our isle, Can sinewy strength impart, And weaned with fatigue and toil, Can cheer each manly heart. So, the walk to the next pub (5
minutes) should be easy.
4. The Hope (Whitbread 'Hogshead' Free house) A large selection of ales here
with one or two barrels usually available behind the counter. Draught Perrier
features as well. Sausage and mash (including vegetarian sausage) can be used
to soak-up anything you wish. The jukebox was unfortunately playing Meatloaf
when I visited but was otherwise OK. Sky TV was showing riveting Grand Prix
practise (I suppose it could have been an Arsenal game). Underneath the TV,
twenty pence buys you a handful of jellybeans. The gents loo was well covered
with intelligent graffiti (someone had cut out a hole saying "look
through here to see women" and somebody added "laughing at your
dick", what can this mean?!) although this 'wit' has now been painted
over. Wags, the world needs them. Out of hope and right into
Whitfield Street, which takes it's name from George Whitefield who founded
Whitefield's tabernacle (Methodist) in Tottenham Court Road in 1756. Now
known as the American church, in 1760 it was the largest non-conformist
church in the world, holding 7-8000 people and was called 'Whitefields soul
trap'. It has been rebuilt several times due to fire and war damage. Down
this road , we pass Pollock's Toy museum. Benjamin Pollock (Penjamin who?)
was one of the last publishers of toy theatre sheets which in Victorian times
were sold for "a penny plain and two pence coloured". "If you
love art, folly or the bright eyes of children, speed to Pollock's",
wrote Robert Louis Stevenson. Further down the road, we pass the 'Cyberia'
cafe, where you can surf the Internet over a cappuccino. Right, now, into Goodge St. Can you
believe that this street was built on a meadow called Crab Tree field which
belonged to the wife of John Goodge, a carpenter and that their nephews began
developing the field in the 1740s? No? You need another drink then, to hear
those lush, green pastures call out to you. |
5. The Valiant Trooper (Courage/Scottish & Newcastle) The first pub we meet in Goodge
St. is a large, fairly lively place serving Courage Best & Directors plus
Theakston Best bitters. Office parties seem to be big here and the 60's to
80's music may be a factor in this. Decorative (some might say) plates
are around the walls and Sky TV probably shows some British team getting
hammered in one sport or other.
6. One Tun (Youngs) A good, lively Youngs pub, which
means pints of 'Ordinary', 'Special' or 'Winter Warmer' for those who feel
festive and bottles of 'Smirnoff mule' for those who don't. Wood panelling at
the front of the pub gives way to wallpaper which may, for some, cause
dizziness, headache and nausea. Food is served all day, for the rest of us. Across the road to:
7. The Northumberland Arms (Nicholson Free house) A small, warm, comfy pub with
Burton, Tetley, Wadworth 6X and a guest beer that should keep all tissues
well perfused. Art-nouveau style lighting, large windows and luxurious drapes
make this a fine, cosy place to spend a winter's evening (or 40 minutes
anyway). Music from the 1980s was playing when I visited (like quite a few in
this area) which shows the age of the crowd that visit. The spiral staircase
to the gents loo is one of the most demanding obstacles faced by a London
pub-goer. Finally, we reach the most famous
of the Fitzrovia pubs
8. The Fitzroy Tavern (Sam Smiths) A lively, atmosperic pub where
being bohemian comes naturally (especially if you've had a pint in each of
the previous 7 pubs). Loud dance music keeps a 'buzz' going. The term
'Fitzrovia' was first coined in this tavern, by a group of the aforementioned
Bohemians, who frequently congregated here in the 1930s and 40s. Pictures of
these 'artists' adorn the walls and there is a 'Writers & artists' bar
downstairs. A book, 'The Fitzroy' has been written about this pub by Sally
Fiber. The pub, built to the designs of
W.M. Brutton in 1897, is on the corner of Windmill St. which takes it's name
from an old windmill, probably of the old Tottenham Court (Totnam Court),
that stood at the junction with Charlotte St until the middle of the 18th
century. The road was, therefore, originally a farm track but was developed
by 1770. And so it is over for another
year, perhaps now is not the time to attempt the mediaeval rhyme in praise of
good ale: Bryng us in no browne bred, for
that is made of brane, Nor bryng us in no whyt bred, for
therin is no game; But bryg us in good ale But perhaps you can now understand
what Sigmund freud was saying: "I do not think that anyone
completely understands its mechanism, but it is a fact that there are foreign
substances which, when present in the blood or tissues, directly cause us
pleasurable sensations; and they also so alter the conditions governing our
sensibility that we become incapable of receiving unpleasurable
impulses" Can you? And, lest we lose
our heads, a cautionary tale for the journey home: Krzysztof Azninski, 30, had been
drinking all day in his garden with three friends. The four men put on
traditional Ôtoughness bonnetsÕ and played macho games. Franciszek Zyzcosusko,
41, put his hand on the chopping board and dared Azninski to cut it off.
Azninski hacked at it with a knife, partially severing the wrist, then put
his own head on the block and challenged Zyzcosusko to chop it off - which he
did, with an axe. The revellers then decided things had gone too far, stopped
the contest and began to sing a folksong called ÔRoll the head of the giantÕ,
waking the neighbours.(Polish News Agency, 25 October, 1994) So, remember this when your
relatives suggest party games after Christmas dinner. Well, we've done it again and are
now fully-fledged Bohemians. Christmas will be a let-down after this, I'm
sure. Aidan Laverty. December 1994 |
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